civilizacoes perdidas

Malden Island

Island in the central Pacific Ocean

7 min01/01/2024
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Malden Island — occasionally called Independence Island in nineteenth-century navigational accounts — is a remote, arid, and uninhabited atoll situated in the central Pacific Ocean, roughly 242 nautical miles south of the equator. It covers an area of approximately 39 square kilometers, or about 15 square miles, and belongs to the Line Islands group that forms part of the territory of the Republic of Kiribati. The nearest land is Starbuck Island, another uninhabited atoll, about 110 nautical miles to the southwest; the nearest inhabited place is Tongareva, also known as Penrhyn Island, some 243 nautical miles to the southwest. The nearest airport is on Kiritimati, commonly called Christmas Island, about 365 nautical miles to the northwest.

The island's shape is roughly that of an equilateral triangle, with approximately 8 kilometers on each side. The west and south corners are slightly truncated, creating shorter coastal segments on those sides of roughly 1 to 2 kilometers each. The interior of the island is topographically unusual: it forms a shallow depression rather than a raised interior, with the western portion sitting only a few meters above sea level and the eastern central portion actually below sea level, occupied by a large, irregularly shaped lagoon that contains a number of small islets. This enclosed lagoon is connected to the surrounding ocean not by any surface channel but by underground passages, making it quite salty. Because of this topography, the ocean is invisible from much of Malden's interior — a disorienting quality that early visitors found remarkable. The island rises to no more than about 10 meters above sea level at its highest point, with the greatest elevations concentrated along a rim following the coastline. A continuous heavy surf pounds all sides of the coast, forming a narrow beach that is predominantly white to gray sand. On the west coast the sandy beach is somewhat more extensive; along most other sections of coast, a strip of dark gray coral rubble forms low ridges parallel to the shoreline.

Malden is classified as one of the most ecologically isolated and botanically impoverished islands in the central Pacific. Only sixteen species of vascular plants have been recorded. The vegetation that does exist is extremely sparse: the island is largely covered in stunted Sida fallax scrub, low herbs, and grasses. Very few, if any, of the clumps of Pisonia grandis that once grew here still survive. Coconut palms planted by the guano workers of the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries did not thrive in the harsh conditions, though a few dilapidated trees may still be encountered. Introduced weeds, particularly the low-growing woody vine Tribulus cistoides, now dominate much of the ground cover. There is no standing fresh water on the island, though a freshwater lens may exist beneath the surface.

The island possesses a striking feature that sets it apart from most Pacific atolls of comparable remoteness: a collection of ancient stone structures of unknown origin and considerable antiquity. Temples, platforms, and paved pathways constructed from coral and stone have been documented on Malden, their builders believed to have been Polynesian voyagers who reached the island well before any European contact and who may have used it as a temporary settlement or ceremonial site before abandoning it. These structures constitute some of the most intriguing pre-contact archaeological remains in the central Pacific, and their presence on an island so thoroughly inhospitable raises questions about the range, ambition, and organizational capacity of the Polynesian maritime culture that created them.

European history on the island is dominated by extraction. Beginning around 1860, Australian commercial interests began mining the island's extensive deposits of phosphatic guano — the accumulated droppings of seabirds, prized as agricultural fertilizer. The operation continued until approximately 1927, and the laborers brought in for that purpose planted the coconut palms that still stand in partial ruin. During this period Malden was worked intensively enough that it briefly supported a small transient population, though no permanent settlement was ever established. The island's guano deposits, once considered among the richest in the region, were essentially exhausted by the time operations ceased.

The twentieth century brought a different kind of infamy. In 1957, Malden Island was selected as the site for Operation Grapple, the first British test of a hydrogen bomb. The tests were conducted at altitude above the island, and the British detonations marked a pivotal moment in the Cold War nuclear arms race, demonstrating that the United Kingdom had successfully developed thermonuclear weapons technology. The choice of Malden — remote, uninhabited, and far from any major human population center — reflected the brutal arithmetic of nuclear testing programs across the Pacific, which treated distance from metropolitan populations as an adequate substitute for genuine safety.

Today Malden Island is protected as the Malden Island Wildlife Sanctuary. The island supports breeding populations of numerous seabird species, and its isolation has made it a refuge for marine wildlife across the surrounding waters. In 2014, the government of Kiribati established a 12-nautical-mile fishing exclusion zone around each of the southern Line Islands, including Malden, Caroline (also known as Millennium Island), Flint, Vostok, and Starbuck, as part of a broader effort to protect the marine ecosystems of the central Pacific. The ancient stone temples, the rusting remnants of the guano industry, and the ghostly traces of Cold War nuclear tests now coexist in this silent, sun-bleached landscape — a layered record of human ambition, exploitation, and, ultimately, abandonment.

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